01 - Combine apples, apple cider or water, and lemon juice in a large heavy-bottomed pot. Cook over medium heat for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until apples are very soft.
02 - Use an immersion blender or a countertop blender in batches to puree the cooked apples until completely smooth.
03 - Return the apple puree to the pot. Stir in granulated sugar, brown sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice, cloves, and salt until fully incorporated.
04 - Simmer uncovered over low heat for 2 to 2 1/2 hours, stirring frequently to prevent sticking, until the mixture thickens and darkens to a rich brown color.
05 - Place a spoonful of the spread onto a plate. If no liquid seeps out from the edges after one minute, the mixture is ready.
06 - Let cool slightly; then transfer to sterilized jars. Store in the refrigerator for up to three weeks or process in a water bath for extended preservation.